February Menswear Essential

It’s mid-month so time for the next monthly installment in the learning what every man’s wardrobe should contain. For February let’s not look at a single item, but this time have a look at a pairing that we should all know how to master. The sport coat and denim look is one that might not meet every stylist’s approval, however it is a practical look to be above the crowd. By going slightly upscale compared to the rest of the guys you’re meeting for a drink you will improve your look and shoot a little confidence your way. A quick word of warning though; and that is to wear this style where it’s appropriate and for god’s sake “keep it classy”.

Since the 1980’s, the blazer and jeans look has been a round. Back then it was Avant Garde to wear a skinny black leather tie with a heavy shoulder padded blazer that glowed in neon pink or green. The look wouldn’t be MTV Music Award night ready without a pair of ripped jeans. Today your look should be tailored properly. That means a jacket that looks like it is yours and not your big brothers. Dark denim that end right at the shoe are to match in their fit.

For consultation, I used Brian Sacawa at hespokestyle.com. Brian is an elite athlete, a writer for the Robb Report and a sharp dresser. From my review of his site, I found Brain to definitely be in favour of dressing up jeans with a number of posts he has on the topic.

The diversity of the sport coat fabrics will give you the opportunity to execute this look for any season. Starting with the Fall and Winter the jacket should heavy texture like a tweed or flannel. Choosing colours of brown through grey and even green will work with a dark navy denim. The shirt would need to line up with the occasion. Pints and nachos after work, then try a neutral solid polo, or t-shirt with a v-neck cashmere. That white button down collard shirt you rarely wear will give a preppy look when needed.

Meeting your lady friend for ice cream while walking in the park? Then double down with a patterned shirt and patterned jacket.

Trying to dress down (or up in the tech industry) for a Friday? Then go with a tie and a wolf.

Don’t forget to add brown boots on your feet. 

In the Spring, a smoother wool jacket would work and try going lighter for the summer. The  denim you slip on your legs would have to lighten up as well, but here too, you need to think a lot about the occasion. If it is going to be dinner out on the patio, then a super jet black jean will give you a James Bond weekend look, but please no tie. Remember it’s Summer so you'll be talking about the Riviera and not your river of mutual funds.

Personally, I think that going all the way to a white jacket is too bold for a short guy like me. Linen, fabric as well, is off my acceptability spectrum, but if you're tall and have access to a clothing steamer everywhere you go throughout the evening then you can keep your jacket looking great.

Shoes, again, should be right for the season and occasion. No boots in July! A suede loafer is top notch. I’d avoid lace-ups unless you are truly coming direct from the office.

Currently, I am shopping obsessed with putting together the right jacket and jeans look. Working it with my navy blazer now is only marginally acceptable, and I’d say completely off limits if your blazer has brass buttons. However, if you own a boat then give it a try with Bermuda short and top-siders, but you will look like the douche-bag from a Molly Ringwald movie.

Now that I have covered the right ways to pull off the look, I will mention the potential doucheyness of doing it wrong. Make sure you understand at what height above the crowd you are going for. You look dickish when your wearing a sport coat with a pocket square and patent leather loafers on a pub crawl. No one will take you serious. No velvet jackets either, unless your name is Bruno Mars!

In the opposite direction towards casual, remember jeans are not an equivalent for semi-formal so under-dressing for a lounge will give others a slob like impression of you. (note: watch for a future post on what “semi-formal” really means).

Sport coat and denim. Do it. But do it right.

Cheers!