January Menswear Essentials

To begin a twelve part piece (one can dream can’t they?) on men’s fashion essentials, I have chosen to discuss my latest purchase. But before I begin the essay on ebay purchases, I will ask the reader to go deep into their beatnik-self with an exert of an exert:

David Mamet on The Black Cashmere Sweater from The Handbook of Style, Esquire 2009

Like the black beret (which one is always told is blue, but mine is black), the black cashmere turtleneck is a perfect garment (cf Horst, Avedon, Irving Penn, et. Al.)

It accentuates the jawline, or in its absence, suggests it and, by extension, character.

It frames the face; it renders the torso more unitary and shapely; it warms; it can be worn casually or under the sport coat or suit as the closest approximation to the required-but-absent shirt and tie in that contest one will likely but not necessarily lose to the maître-d’…I have tucked the sweater into my jeans, clinched the belt tight, turned the tweed cap brim-to-the-back, and felt the complete Martin Eden.

Such an ensemble will make one look good, or as good as one is ever going to look, and, therefore make one feel good. No wonder I associate the sweater with love: It shares its job description…

We were plagued in philosophy class by the question of the Hammer: The handle breaks, and we replace the handle. Later, the head breaks, and we replace the head. Is it the same hammer? The question of the Hamer could be argued yea or nay, and when the new one comes out of the box, it will be, by acclamation, by courtesy, and in fact, my same clack cashmere turtleneck.

So doth the philosophy serve Humankind. Shantih

Originally published in full as “Diary of a Sweater,” Esquire, May 1996

I determined that the way to avoid the $300+ crush of a true cashmere sweater was to buy for look and not feel. Merino comes in as an adequate substitute of wool and if your lady friend(s) is intrigued enough by your handsomeness to lay her softly manicured fingers on your chest she will not pay attention to the server discounted price the merino gives you over the cashmere. And besides that money saved could go into the bank to offset the price of that dinner you just shared with her; or them.

Turtleneck sweaters and the shorter man do not always mate well. A mock neck would be good for me, but with my recent purchase I went crew neck. In fact, I pulled a new J. Crew black merino off ebay with shipping for C$80. That ended up a squeak over my $75 budget, but worth it when I got my hands on it.

The first wearing was a casual function with a jeans and the collar of a white T shirt peaking out the top. The thickness of the knit would work, as Mamet describes, under a jacket, and that evening it sure made my dark Levi’s look better. Brown belt and brown lace up shoes capped off the look.

Going upscale with the sweater is easy as Mr. Craig does it with his jeans and a tie. Personally, not for me unless the jeans were dropped for some crisp trousers. I can’t get the tie and jeans thing together.

In general, and over my fashion history, merino is great. I also slip myself into a black cardigan when feeling the fall or early spring chill come across me. In the drawers of my dressers there have been many so well loved sweaters. A holiday red was worn every fashion possible before it met the demise of not following the laundry instructions; and should the need come again it will be happily replaced.

Next month’s essential…Sport coats and jeans.